May 17, 2006
Edible San Francisco Spring 2006
ESF, the spring issue is here, and it's full of stellar food writing. And I even have a piece in it too. The incredibly beautiful cover photo is by Lara Hata. Quite the lineup this issue, starting with the fabulous Pim Techamuanvivit of Chez Pim who has an opinion (about everything basically but we told her she could only write about food) and she's taking shots at organic food. From her first article for ESF:
"This is not an easy venue to publish this article. I really should know better. Saying anything critical of organic products in a magazine destined to support organic foods and sustainable farming is at best misguided. And at worst, you asked? Daniel Patterson is still paying for a similar crime - daring to question the Gospel According to Alice in this Wonderland known as the Bay Area - months after he wrote that fateful article in the New York Times. Yet I am going to do it anyway, because it irritates me so, or perhaps I am a glutton for punishment."Shuna Fish Lydon never beats around the bush when it comes to food, and if you've read her blog Eggbeater, then you know she can write as well as she cooks. Ever the professional, Shuna offers insights you just can't glean from a cookbook no matter how much you read between the lines, and when it comes to rhubarb, lookout! From her premiere piece for ESF:
"Contradictory to what your instinct may tell you, creating a thicker, sweeter (thus hotter) syrup to poach rhubarb, results in a less-sweet, crunchier end result. Rhubarb’s high water content means that the liquid cooking it must be of a higher viscosity. The sweeter and denser the syrup is, the less sugar the rhubarb actually absorbs, or at a slower rate than the fruit is releasing its own water, aka macerating. This is the basic premise for why a sauté pan needs to be hot before the oil goes in and why mushrooms shouldn't be washed with water. (Osmotic reciprocity.)"And you know we are a big fan of Cleo Papanikolas. She writes as elegantly as she paints. She digs around in the sheep fields of her past for her piece titled "Lambie Pie":
"Catching a sheep is not an exulting run through green pastures that causes you to raise your arms and break into song. Hippies can’t run nearly as fast as sheep. The green pastures are full of landmines: a trench for the septic tank leach line, gopher holes, and the rattlesnake that we found on second base during a pasture baseball game. Herding sheep is like being a soccer goalie with ten balls on the field each weighing two hundred pounds – your teammates scrambling through the mud wearing Frye boots and bellbottoms. Our small farm didn’t have the help of professional dogs that bring the sheep too you if you whistle the right way. We had Jeff. He, like all the neighborhood dogs, would chase the sheep straight into a fence, killing them."And of course, we have a ton of other salivating content by SF Bay Area writers that you just can't get anywhere else. Really. No really you should subscribe. Just click here.
Posted by Bruce at May 17, 2006 04:21 AM