December 22, 2004
Food News 12-22-04
Happy Holidays from Saute Wednesday!
Food News 12-22-04
Pierre Berton wrote this column in the Toronto Star on Dec. 22, 1958. "Years ago a man named Morton Thompson, who was a columnist for the Hollywood Citizen-News, and a very good columnist indeed, published a column called "How to Cook a Turkey."...When you remove the turkey it will be dead black. You will think, "My God! I have ruined it." Be calm. Take a tweezer and pry loose the paste coating. It will come off readily. Beneath this burnt, harmless, now worthless shell the bird will be golden and dark brown, succulent, giddy making with wild aroma, crisps and crunchable and crackling...You do not have to be a carver to eat this turkey; speak harshly to it and it will fall apart." More from the Toronto Star (User id: firstname.lastname@example.org - password: wednesday)
Buying beef in Britain - the OTM rule. "Traditionally, December has been the time to slaughter adult cattle still fat from grazing, then to mature the beef slowly. But the beef industry has been turned on its head by modern farming methods, technology and, in the past decade, by consumer uncertainty over BSE."
"Twas not ever thus. In 1946 a beef crisis had the country by the horns, or so one would have believed by the newspapers. A.J. Liebling, a brilliant New Yorker columnist, declared it "The Great Gouamba." According to an African adventure book he quoted, "For days . . . a man does not get any meat at all; and whenever any other food is brought before him you will hear him say, looking at the food with disgust, 'Gouamba,' which means literally, 'I am sick of food; I have a craving for meat; I care for nothing else.' More from Cleveland.com
"Retail Cuts of Beef" Photo © 2000, Oklahoma State University Board of Regents. All rights reserved. .
"One area that fascinates me is how all the senses play their own roles in our appreciation of food. Even our sense of touch can affect our perception of flavour. Try this experiment for yourselves. Try tasting some ice cream - it should taste good, like ice cream. Now take the same ice cream and while putting a spoonful in your mouth close your eyes and fondle a piece of velvet cloth. It will taste creamier than before! But even more astonishing if you rub your hand over a piece of fine sandpaper while taking yet another spoonful, the ice cream will seem to become gritty." Peter Barnham - molecular gastronomist extraordinaire on The Discovery Channel.
What's a sommelier to do? "The diner didn't drink. Instead Mr. Roberts measured out a small, perfect glass of Clover Stornetta whole milk, shaken until it was good and frothy. That's right. Milk. The drink's cold foam proved a perfect textural contrast to the hot pasta, its dairy fat conspiring with the butter to carry the flavor of the truffles..." More from Kim Severson in the NY Times.
Don't forget to catch the last broadcast this year of the Hidden Kitchens on NPR. On December 24 they'll be talking about Turkeys in the Trash Can, Scallops Big As Saucers, Asphalt Ovens, 50 Signed Pie Plates, and Other Stories from the Hidden Kitchen Phone Line...
Posted by Bruce at December 22, 2004 05:15 AM