09/12.04

The Cult of Fergus Henderson On the subject of warm pig's head, he urges: "The flesh from a pig's head is flavoursome and tender. Consider, its cheeks have had just the right amount of exercise...and the nozzle has the lipsticking quality of being not quite flesh nor quite fat, the perfect foil to the crunch of the crispy ear." And here, finally, are his thoughts on that rare treat, ducks hearts on toast: "The perfect snack for the cook who has just prepared five ducks. Have your toast ready." Rachael Cook, Guardian UK, Sept. 12, 2004

"Now When You Pick a Paw Paw..." The pawpaw fruit, the largest edible fruit native to the US, is having a comeback. Kentucky State University has a webpage dedicated to it. Nurseries in the mid-south are beginning to feature it."Pawpaw is the largest native fruit and it is gaining popularity..." Jill Thomas, Herald Citizen, Sept. 11, 2004

No Beef = No Hunting Black-and-white rectangular placards started appearing on fence posts and mailboxes across the prairies over the past few days. "No American hunters allowed due to BSE," the signs declare, in bold capital letters. "Your unfair trade in beef and wheat by your government has led to these actions." As fall hunting season begins, some farmers in Alberta, Manitoba and Saskatchewan are threatening to bar American hunters from collecting the annual bounty of deer, ducks and geese from their fields. Graeme Smith, The Globe and Mail, Sept 10, 2004

The Jewish Holiday Kitchen "Twenty-five years ago, I interviewed women in their 80s, and people come up to me and they say these recipes are great," she says. "I watched people doing things that we (wouldn't see) today. With the world changing so rapidly, these recipes will really last." Nathan says she believes that the women gave her the recipes, instead of giving them to family members, as a way of playing it close to the vest. The family would continue to visit and the cook would earn kudos for a recipe that no one else could imitate. Marty Meitus, Rocky Mountain News, Sept. 8, 2004

The Artful Eater The Artful Eater, after it was published in 1992 by Atlantic Monthly Press, despite strong reviews, went out of print and copies became scarce. The 18 chapters address the raw materials of good food — from salt and pepper to salmon, ham, mustard, beef, apples, vanilla, cream, coffee. The work is based on writing that appeared in early issues of the quarterly (The Art of Eating). Edward Behr

In regards to the recent news involving the James Beard Foundation, please note that The James Beard Foundation Awards (which honor food and beverage industry professionals in America for their achievements) are not under any questioning or investigation.